Our family guide to swimming the cove below the hotel — reading the tides, knowing the water, getting in safely, and why we never swim alone.
On a calm morning, when the tide is out and the water is that particular shade of green-blue, the cove below the hotel is one of the most quietly wonderful places we know. We have been swimming here for three generations. Our grandmother swam it in a wool bathing suit; our children swim it now with neon goggles and too much confidence. Over all those years we have learned a few things worth passing on — not to frighten anyone, but because good information makes a swim better, and because this stretch of coast deserves respect.
Reading the tides
The cove is tidal, which is both its charm and the main thing to understand before you get in. At low water, the sand is wide and sheltered and the entry points are obvious. As the tide rises, the beach narrows quickly and some of the rocks that looked distant become close neighbours of the swimming area. At high water, especially on a spring tide, there is very little beach left at all.
We print the week's tide times and pin them to the noticeboard beside reception every Sunday morning. We also keep a laminated card at the slipway gate. The best swimming window is roughly two hours either side of low tide. If you arrive and the water is already lapping the base of the stone wall at the foot of the garden steps, give it an hour or so — have a coffee, read your book — and check again.
Tidal currents increase significantly in the narrows to the west of the cove during the two hours around high water. Please stay within the marked buoys during these periods — the flags on the buoy lines are yellow.
Water temperature through the year
We measure the water temperature each morning from the end of the slipway and chalk it on a small blackboard beside the tide sheet. Here is roughly what to expect across the seasons.
- January – March: 8 – 10 °C. Cold water swimming territory. Exhilarating for regulars, uncomfortable for most. A wetsuit is sensible; a thick one is better.
- April – May: 11 – 13 °C. Still brisk. A 3mm wetsuit makes a meaningful difference. Sunny days can make the shallows feel warmer than they are — don't be fooled.
- June – August: 15 – 18 °C. The sweet spot. Comfortable for swimming in a costume, and the cove earns every bit of its reputation.
- September – October: 15 – 17 °C. Often the best month for swimming — the water has had all summer to warm and the crowds have eased.
- November – December: 10 – 13 °C. Dropping again. Beautiful and quiet. Wetsuit recommended.
Where to get in
There are two sensible entry points, and we favour them for different reasons.
The slipway at the eastern end of the cove is the easiest and the one we recommend for children, for anyone unfamiliar with the cove, and for the first swim of a stay. The concrete ramp runs gently into the water, there are grip strips along the sides, and you can walk in gradually. The bottom is sand and fine gravel for the first ten metres or so. There is a metal handrail on the right-hand side as you face the sea; use it on the way back out if the swell has picked up.
The flat rocks on the western side offer a more adventurous entry and are popular with stronger swimmers who want to swim straight into deeper water. Wear water shoes — the rocks are not sharp but they are uneven and can be slippery with weed below the high-tide line. Step in rather than jump; the depth varies and changes seasonally as sand shifts. We do not recommend this entry point at anything above a moderate swell.
If you are unsure about conditions on any given day, ask at reception before you go down. We swim here ourselves — we will give you a straight answer.
What to bring
We keep a small kit list on the noticeboard, but the essentials are these: a towel you do not mind getting sandy, a warm layer for after (the wind can be cold even when the sun is bright), water shoes if you plan to use the rocks, and a dry bag for your phone. We stock a small supply of disposable foil blankets at the slipway gate — please help yourself if you need one and drop it back in the bin on the way up.
Tow floats — the bright inflatable kind that trail behind you on a short leash — are strongly encouraged. They make you visible to any boat traffic and give you something to hold if you need a rest. We have a couple available to borrow from reception; just leave a name.
The rule we ask everyone to follow
We have one firm rule for swimming in the cove, and it is not negotiable: never swim alone. It does not matter how strong a swimmer you are. It does not matter if it is glassy calm and you can see the bottom. The sea is unpredictable, cramp happens, and there is no lifeguard on this beach. Always have someone on shore who is watching — not reading, not on their phone, actually watching — or swim with another person in the water.
— Something our grandmother used to sayThe sea will always be there. There is no swim worth taking a risk for.
If you are travelling solo and would like company for an early-morning swim, leave a note at reception the evening before. We almost always have a family member heading down before breakfast and you are welcome to join us. It is one of the better ways to start a day.
The cove has been part of our family's life for a long time, and we want it to be part of yours too — safely, happily, and with the kind of quiet pleasure that a good swim in good water gives you. Come and find us at reception if you have any questions. We will be there.
